A-Game

Korean born and Los Angeles raised, chef-of-the-moment Roy Choi has a bit of an identity crisis. Possessing a classically trained pedigree- Culinary Institute of America alum, as well as a prior stint at Le Bernardin in NYC- Choi creates his unconventional food in a high-low fashion… the same way a stylista would pair a Chanel jacket with some torn vintage jeans. Rebel, perhaps…without a cause, no way. Choi is known throughout Los Angeles as the godfather of food trucks, as his fleet of Kogi BBQ Trucks snake their way across the city, tweeting out surprise locations daily- sending Choi’s fans racing through LA, not unlike The Amazing Race– just to taste a new savory concoction or his favored essential, the can’t have just one Korean taco- a Korean/Mexican mashup in the best possible way.

Food & Wine Magazine ranked Choi as best new chef in 2010, and his array of LA restaurants and trucks showcase his love for good, accessible food. Most notably, A-Frame in Culver City- housed in a converted IHOP- is where diners are advised to share plates with their hands within the setting of a stylish mess hall, seated at communal tables or around the bonfire on the patio. Dishes that are best described as street food elevated by classical technique, are consumed in a procession which lasts throughout the night at what seems like a hip private party, as the crowd is just as edgy as Choi.

Crispy beer-can chicken, kettle corn dusted with a crunchy seaweed condiment called furikake, and the Korean brew Hite Lager instantly becomes a fried chicken picnic, while the buffalo wings and hoisen-glazed baby back ribs may appear a bit messy- especially when sharing a table with an attractive stranger- however, it doesn’t seem to deter people from digging in for more. For my next craving, and a bit of fun, I may chase down Choi’s truck to some verboten part of town…all in the name of food exploration, of course. www.aframela.com